Handmade Is Where
the Question Starts
At the French Market in South Pointe Park there is no such anchor. Nearly thirty tables, almost none of them food, in a market built around craft. By the time somebody reaches ours, handmade is a word they have heard all afternoon.
Which means the word does very little work for us that day. That sounds like a problem. It is actually the most honest day we get all year, and it is worth explaining why.
The French Market at South Pointe Park, 1 Washington Avenue, Miami Beach. Selected Sundays from fall through spring, 9 in the morning to 5:30 in the afternoon. Free to walk in.
It is a monthly market, not a weekly one, so it is a date rather than a habit. Check before you come.
There is a large lot at the park, and valet parking all around South Pointe, which is not something you can say about most of South Beach on a Sunday.
Ask for Ilaria. She founded MI RE LA and chooses the motifs. Placemats, napkins, cocktail napkins and bread baskets are on the table and go home with you that day.
When Handmade Is the Baseline
The market is run by the French American Association of Crafts and Trades, and the selection shows it. Bakers, body care, plants, accessories, ceramics, things for the house. Nearly thirty tables, chosen for craft rather than for volume.
So on that particular Sunday, saying our linen is handmade is where the conversation starts rather than where it ends. It is the price of entry, and every table has already paid it.
What is left is the part that actually separates one table from another, and it is narrower and less romantic than the word suggests. Where was it made. By whom, and to what standard. How many hands touched it, and which parts a machine did better than a hand would have.
Handmade is not a quality. It is a starting condition. What matters is what happened after it.
For us the answer is short. The linen is cut, sewn and embroidered in Italy, in workshops we work with directly. The embroidery is machine work, held to a standard set by hand, which is the honest description and a better one than pretending every stitch was pulled through by a person. The choices that make a piece look like ours, the scale of a motif, the color of a leaf, the proportion of a mat, are Ilaria's.
None of that is visible in a photograph, and very little of it is visible on a table either. It is a conversation. A market of thirty makers is one of the few places where people are actually in the mood to have it.
Three Kinds of People Stop at the Table
South Pointe is at the southern tip of Miami Beach, with the park on one side and the water on the other. The crowd it produces is not the crowd at a neighborhood market, and the difference is useful.
People who live here. The same conversation as anywhere else: a table they already own, a room they are slowly finishing, a color they cannot decide on. The question is usually what a room can take without everything else in it having to move. This is the conversation Ilaria is best at, and it tends to start with somebody describing their dining room rather than asking about the linen.
People visiting. A good number of tables up north were set with something bought on a trip, and there is a practical side to that which nobody mentions at the moment of buying. Napkins and cocktail napkins fold flat, weigh almost nothing and survive a suitcase without complaint. Placemats are a different proposition, because ours have a rigid core and do not fold. If you are flying home, say so when you arrive and we will tell you what travels well.
People who spend time on a boat. The marina is minutes away and it shows in who walks past. A boat is the one table where laundering is the real constraint, which is why the piece we point to there is the coated linen: woven linen with a resin finish, so most everyday spills can be handled at the surface rather than sending anything to a wash. When it does need washing, the cover comes off the rigid core and goes on its own, which matters more on a boat, where storage and laundry are both in short supply.
The Two Questions Worth Asking Us
Not because they are clever. Because they are the two things you cannot settle from a screen, and you have the objects in front of you.
Which napkin finish. Table napkins are made in two finishes, pre-washed and crisp. In a photograph they are the same cloth. In the hand they are not close: the pre-washed one falls soft and open and asks nothing of you, the crisp one holds a fold and takes an iron. Which one is right is a question about your own house rather than about the linen, which is why nobody can answer it for you from a photograph. Cocktail napkins are made in crisp only, for a reason that becomes obvious the moment somebody puts a glass down on one.
How big the embroidery really is. On a phone a motif fills the screen. On the table it is a few centimeters in one corner, which is how they are designed. People are split on it, and honestly split: some would go smaller still, others ask whether we can do it larger. There is no correct answer, only yours, and you find it by looking.
Made to Order, and the One Condition
A house that is already finished rarely needs more things in it. Now and then it needs one thing made for the exact place it is going.
Custom thread colors and custom sizes are made to order on placemats, napkins, runners and bread baskets. A table that is not a standard size, a console that wants a runner and nothing else, a motif in a color that is not in the collection.
The condition is quantity. Everything is embroidered and sewn to order in Italy, so a made to order run starts at 25 pieces, and the exact figure moves a little depending on which piece you want. Come with a rough number in mind and Ilaria can tell you where you stand that day. It is the reason made to order tends to be chosen for a wedding, a private event, a house being finished, or a restaurant or a boat that wants its own motif rather than somebody else's.
Say so when you arrive. It is a longer conversation than buying a set, and a market that runs to 5:30 gives you room for it.
A Date, Not a Habit
The other market we do, on Key Biscayne, runs every Saturday morning and is mostly the island's own residents doing their week. You drift into it.
South Pointe is the opposite. It happens on selected Sundays across the season rather than every week, it runs most of the day, and the people at it came for it. That changes the pace at the table in a way we like: nobody is carrying groceries, and nobody is working through a list with somewhere to be afterwards.
It also means the date is worth checking first. The organizers publish them season by season, and once a date is on the list we are normally there for it.
The other difference is that South Pointe is somewhere you would go anyway. The park sits at the very tip of Miami Beach, the walk down to the sand takes a few minutes, and Smith & Wollensky is right there at the end of it. A Sunday at this market can be an hour or it can be the whole afternoon, and most people who stay the afternoon come back to the tables a second time before they leave.
Why We Like Being There
There is no deep affinity to explain between a French market in Miami Beach and linen made in Italy. The market is French because a French association runs it. The point of the day is not nationality.
The point is that almost everything on the tables can be asked about, and somebody is standing there who knows the answer. That suits our motifs, which tend to raise a question rather than settle one. A sardine, a turtle or a lemon on the corner of a napkin is a reference and not an instruction to the rest of the room: it does not need blue stripes and shells around it to explain itself, which is the difference between a coastal table and a Mediterranean one. That distinction takes one sentence across a table and a whole article online.
The French Market at South Pointe Park
1 Washington Avenue
Miami Beach, FL 33139
Selected Sundays, fall through spring, 9:00 AM to 5:30 PM. Free admission.
The market is organized by the French American Association of Crafts and Trades, which publishes the dates for each season. We are normally at all of them. The dates themselves are the thing to check, since they change from season to season.
Where can I see MI RE LA linen in person in Miami Beach?
At the French Market in South Pointe Park, 1 Washington Avenue, on selected Sundays through the season. We are also at the Key Biscayne Farmers Market on Saturday mornings.
When is the French Market at South Pointe Park?
It runs on selected Sundays from fall through spring, from 9 in the morning to 5:30 in the afternoon, at South Pointe Park in Miami Beach. It is a monthly market rather than a weekly one, and the organizers publish the dates for each season.
Where do I park for the French Market at South Pointe Park?
There is a large lot at the park itself, and valet parking throughout South Pointe. It is one of the easier corners of South Beach to arrive at by car on a Sunday.
Is there an entrance fee?
No. Admission is free and the market is open to all ages.
Are you there for every date?
Normally yes. The French Market runs on a published calendar rather than every week, so the date is the thing to confirm before you come, not whether we will be at it.
Can I buy at the market, or only look?
You can buy, and it goes home with you that day. Placemats, napkins, cocktail napkins and bread baskets are on the table.
Which pieces are easiest to travel home with?
Napkins and cocktail napkins. They fold flat, weigh very little and take a suitcase without trouble. Our placemats have a rigid core and do not fold, so they are a different proposition if you are carrying a bag.
What should I look at in person rather than online?
The two table napkin finishes beside each other, pre-washed and crisp, because they photograph identically and feel nothing alike. The coated linen, which people expect to feel like plastic and does not. And the true size of the embroidery, which is much smaller than a phone screen suggests.
Can I discuss a made to order piece there?
Yes, and the long Sunday hours make it the easier of our two markets for it. Custom sizes and custom thread colors are made to order on placemats, napkins, runners and bread baskets. The condition is quantity: everything is embroidered and sewn to order in Italy, so a made to order run starts at 25 pieces, with the exact figure depending on which piece you want. Come with a rough number in mind.
- Greater Miami Convention and Visitors Bureau, The French Market South Pointe, for dates, hours and location.
- Hoodline, Miami Beach Welcomes New Monthly French Market at South Pointe Park, for the market's origin and organizer.
Some things are easier across a table.